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Post by UnforseenWeather on Feb 18, 2012 13:43:57 GMT -5
Now that is an excellent tutorial! Thank you much.
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matt
New Member
Trigger Jerk
Posts: 244
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Post by matt on Feb 18, 2012 15:05:31 GMT -5
That was a great tutorial. Thank you!
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Post by Patriotic Sheepdog on Feb 18, 2012 21:24:11 GMT -5
Sweet job and great write-up. Thanks for taking the time to post it.
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Post by Diz on Feb 19, 2012 18:18:01 GMT -5
I have tried a few things out there and have found that for rifles I use two kinds of finishing systems. For a good base, I like a mil-spec park, or black oxide if possible. If not, then my base is usually KG gunkote. I have found this system strikes the best balance between durability and ease of application. For example, let's say you're building an AK parts gun. Once the metal fitting is done, I sandblast everything to a nice fresh bare metal. Then apply base coat. Let's say it's KG gunkote, in a nice park gray. Once this is cured, I go to my camo color finish. I like Duracoat for this, because it air-cures, meaning I can use it on polymers, optics, etc. for an overall camo finish, and I can custom mix for any colors I want. It is fairly durable, especially if you let it cure for several weeks before use, but it will eventually chip up under hard use. So any good, flat spray can system will work almost as well here.
The KG gunkote is pretty durable, and gives you excellent corrosion resistance. It is even better applied over a parkerized or black oxide (or even ion-bonded) layer. It too will eventually chip and scratch but wears fairly hard for a spray and bake product. I like it for metal internals, using other products for the external camo finish.
Genrally speaking, any spray and bake (or just spray) finish is gonna eventually wear, but for ease of application and cost, work fairly well. In the past, I have gone patrolling with KG coated weapons, at least twice a month for a year, before they showed enough signs of wear to re-finish them.
If I was building a custom AK, I would start with a black ion-bonded finish. Over that I would apply KG gunkote for corrosion resistance. Then finally the camo color coat, prolly Duracoat.
For other kit, I also use Duracoat, so most of my stuff is color matched, usually a coyote brown color. But here again spray cans are GTG. I just happen to have a nice touch up gun so I like to mix and spray my own colors.
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4track
Junior Member
Posts: 276
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Post by 4track on Feb 20, 2012 9:39:46 GMT -5
Here are a few more items that I did last year using the same technique.
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matt
New Member
Trigger Jerk
Posts: 244
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Post by matt on Feb 20, 2012 17:11:36 GMT -5
Nice! You do great work with paint and appreciate the most versatile woods tool ever, the machete. I am impressed.
One of these days I am going to have to pick up one of the Blind Horse machetes. I really like the handle design.
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Dedicatedpro
New Member
Sweat More Now Bleed Less Later
Posts: 209
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Post by Dedicatedpro on Feb 23, 2012 4:07:23 GMT -5
Excellent tutorial and demo!
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4track
Junior Member
Posts: 276
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Post by 4track on Feb 10, 2013 17:06:38 GMT -5
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Post by Hawkeye on Feb 10, 2013 18:54:19 GMT -5
Nicely done.
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Post by Patriotic Sheepdog on Feb 10, 2013 21:13:06 GMT -5
4track, you do nice work. I'll have to try that multicam technique on my helmet. If I screw it up ill just throw the ACU cover back on it or buy a new multicam cover. Thanks for the tutorial.
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Post by UnforseenWeather on Feb 11, 2013 10:56:04 GMT -5
Bonus points for the Rebel insignia
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4track
Junior Member
Posts: 276
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Post by 4track on Feb 11, 2013 17:43:40 GMT -5
Bonus points for the Rebel insignia Hell yeah...Alliance to Restore the Republic... certainly rings true, in our current state, what with the Emperor taking over the galaxy and all that! ;D
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Post by Diz on Feb 22, 2013 22:28:29 GMT -5
4track: awesome work.
As an update, I have been experimenting with blasting bare metal and direct applying KG gunkote. It seems as though the finish likes bare, fresh, clean metal as a base. I've done 2 AR's so far and will see how they hold up.
Just refinished my Glocks as well but stuck with Dura-coat since I didn't want to bake the tritium inserts. It holds up OK after daily wear for over 4 years. It also seems to like coating over bare fresh metal as well.
At the end of the day, if you're camo-finishing a weapon for real field use, then practically any camo system will work. Some are more durable than others but hey they all get the job done.
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Post by grendal1989 on Feb 23, 2013 12:03:33 GMT -5
I too can attest to KG gunkote's preference for freshly bare metal. When I refinished my .25 Jetfire for pocket carry I took all the finish off with a abrasive sponge(softer than wire but hard enough to get the blueing/anodizing off the 50+yr old gun) Its held up very well in this application. However when I used it on the "black oxide" on my Remington 597 it has held somewhat less well at abrasion points(we use the propped-up-on-back-of-chair stabilization method).
As has been said surface prep is key. Not rushing here makes for much more resilient results later.
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Francismarion
New Member
Head Squirrel
Chosen for Survival and Adventure
Posts: 23
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Post by Francismarion on Feb 28, 2013 15:47:03 GMT -5
BA 4Track... Especially the Rebel Alliance patch.
I've found similar results, albeit far less detailed and spiffy as yours, with Krylon, and a laundry net. Been doing it for many years, with many rifles.
The latest batch was last summer, had a few new piston rifles to put together, and paint. Got a middy waiting to paint now, and I think I've been empowered and inspired. Great write-up, and thanks again.
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