hwi
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Posts: 127
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Post by hwi on Jul 11, 2012 10:39:21 GMT -5
I was eyeing that handguard, seems to be the best option if I end up getting a vz.58. What all did you have to do to get that AK pistol grip to fit? Love the tactical cheek pad.
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Post by grendal1989 on Jul 11, 2012 10:57:15 GMT -5
That handguard or the NEA one, their products are definitely top shelf and very proven. and the combo of the NEA lower handguard and Bonesteel upper would make for a very light fore end, but i wanted some girth.
All I did to the pistol grip was file down the sides to match the contour of the plate that the original fit into(aligning it more toward the back of the plate. If I did it again, I would take some off the top of the grip so that there were more threads on the screw in the gun(evidently the grip screw is interchangeable with the ak and likely the only one) and it would give you more material to work with. Also, if you are doing this I would suggest filing it closer where it interfaces with the plate(rather than a smooth contour inward more of a step) this preserves the grip a little better and makes for a more precise fit. Although I did this with hand files( don't ask how long it took) I suggest dremel type tool and tracing the top of the original grip top outline on the top of the ak grip as a starting point. If you ever want more pictures when you do this IM me(or email) and I will take some close ups.
One of my shooting buddies gives me all kinds of grief about the cheek pad. But I have to say, wrapping the factory folder in pipe insulation and 100mph tape really helped in the comfort department....and was easy on the wallet.
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hwi
New Member
Posts: 127
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Post by hwi on Aug 10, 2012 17:41:35 GMT -5
Right now I am trying to decide if I want to go with another 7.62x39 rifle, which would be a vz.58, or if I want to get another AK, but in 5.56x45. If I do end up going with the vz.58 I will likely get the the one from CzechPoint that has the black polymer furniture with the folding stock and then just swap out the upper handguard for the NEA or Bonesteel railed one to mount a micro red dot. I do have one more question about your vz.58 grendal, did it have a muzzle nut/extension permanently attached that you had to remove to install that brake? I read that all the vz.58 have that, but wanted to verify, because I'll be wanting to put a flash hider on it. Here's another picture to make it thread related. lol
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4track
Junior Member
Posts: 276
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Post by 4track on Aug 13, 2012 10:31:18 GMT -5
How do you activate that light without burning your support hand?
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Post by grendal1989 on Aug 13, 2012 12:11:41 GMT -5
Yes, the 7.62 vz's from Czechpoint have a perm attached barrel extension. I got my brake attached for $45 at a local smith. (the century vz2008 have a us barrel and no perm extension...but no czech chrome lined hammer forged barrel or czech reciever...and many people have reservations about Century as a company as a whole but the general opnion is that the Vz2008 isn't bad just not as refined. they still have some at: centerfiresystems.com/rifle-vz58hc-fold.aspxI went for Czechpoint, but for $500 A far better deal than many AKs out there right now) Also, I will make a plug here for a Czechpoint 5.56 vz, which does NOT have a perm attached extension. Also, can come with a factory AR magwell adapter. The owner of Czechpoint, Dan, said they should be back in stock by the end of September, along with some other cool things. Can read here: www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=49045.msg293883#new
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hwi
New Member
Posts: 127
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Post by hwi on Aug 13, 2012 18:07:34 GMT -5
How do you activate that light without burning your support hand? I wear a glove on my weak hand when I shoot, but I can activate that light with my hand on the handguard in normal shooting position. Yes, the 7.62 vz's from Czechpoint have a perm attached barrel extension. I got my brake attached for $45 at a local smith. (the century vz2008 have a us barrel and no perm extension...but no czech chrome lined hammer forged barrel or czech reciever...and many people have reservations about Century as a company as a whole but the general opnion is that the Vz2008 isn't bad just not as refined. they still have some at: centerfiresystems.com/rifle-vz58hc-fold.aspxI went for Czechpoint, but for $500 A far better deal than many AKs out there right now) Also, I will make a plug here for a Czechpoint 5.56 vz, which does NOT have a perm attached extension. Also, can come with a factory AR magwell adapter. The owner of Czechpoint, Dan, said they should be back in stock by the end of September, along with some other cool things. Can read here: www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=49045.msg293883#newThanks a lot for the info, especially on the 5.56 vz's.
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4track
Junior Member
Posts: 276
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Post by 4track on Aug 13, 2012 20:26:36 GMT -5
I wear a glove on my weak hand when I shoot, but I can activate that light with my hand on the handguard in normal shooting position. OK, I see, now, although, it really looks like a long stretch to activate the light's tail cap, to me. I don't think that I could pull that off effectively. With my AK, that entire area gets super hot, even with gloves and an extended rail hand guard. Since mine is Chinese, I also have gas vents there, too. I keep my light a little farther back, and activate it with the web between my thumb and finger. I find that this ham-fisted light activation method is a lot easier to accomplish under stress, rather than using only a single digit.
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hwi
New Member
Posts: 127
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Post by hwi on Aug 13, 2012 23:15:47 GMT -5
The problem with having the light behind the FSB is that it shadows your target area, that's why I have it that far forward. If you do some night shooting you'll see that it can be pretty detrimental. Once I get the barrel cut down I will be moving it back some.
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Post by grendal1989 on Aug 14, 2012 6:35:11 GMT -5
What light mount are you running hwi? Looks like the thorntail but figured I'd check. Any detrimental effects to optic zero by mounting/using flashlight on the top rail?
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Post by Hawkeye on Aug 14, 2012 7:36:31 GMT -5
The problem with having the light behind the FSB is that it shadows your target area, that's why I have it that far forward. If you do some night shooting you'll see that it can be pretty detrimental. Once I get the barrel cut down I will be moving it back some. I Have mine set up further to the rear, and havent found it to be an issue personally. In fact, with it slightly behind the front sight, it help to light up the sight in addition to the target.
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hwi
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Posts: 127
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Post by hwi on Aug 14, 2012 15:17:19 GMT -5
What light mount are you running hwi? Looks like the thorntail but figured I'd check. Any detrimental effects to optic zero by mounting/using flashlight on the top rail? Yeah, it's the Thorntail. The mounting bracket is extremely low profile on the Thorntail, it is not in the optic picture at all. I Have mine set up further to the rear, and havent found it to be an issue personally. In fact, with it slightly behind the front sight, it help to light up the sight in addition to the target. The one time I did a night class with light behind the FSB left me pissed off because I had a big ass shadow at about 10 o'clock(had the light mounted on the right side of the handguard). I run both a red dot and a tritium front sight post so lighting up the front sight isn't necessary for me.
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4track
Junior Member
Posts: 276
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Post by 4track on Aug 14, 2012 19:48:33 GMT -5
In my experience, no matter where a light is mounted on a long gun, there will always be some cast shadow. Some part of the weapon (muzzle, front sight, stock, etc.), always blocks some of the emitted cone of light. Always. I suppose that it could be said that the "best" position to mount the light is very user subjective. It involves some compromise between the amount/location of cast shadow, and the ease of manipulation of the light. On my AK, the best position that I found for minimizing cast shadow was having the light on the bottom rail, as far forward to the muzzle as I could mount it. This cast very little shadow at all, and it fell at the edge of twelve o'clock position of my cone of light. The problem was that, in low light training, I found this position was severely lacking when activating the light in less than ideal shooting positions and over/around barricades. So after trying numerous mounts and positions, I have settled on the light in the one o'clock position, and a bit more rear ward from my front sight. For my use, this has given me a good balance: central spot beam and periphery flood, as well as an acceptable level of cast shadow. The cast shadow, in my case, is close enough to the fringe of my peripheral light that I no more notice it than I do the body or battery knob on the Aimpoint that I use. My eyes are focused on red dot floating on the threat, and I see through the shadow, if that makes any sense to you.
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hwi
New Member
Posts: 127
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Post by hwi on Aug 14, 2012 23:16:41 GMT -5
I don't have a shadow on my set up, the beam is tight enough that it doesn't hit my muzzle brake.
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tada
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Post by tada on Aug 16, 2012 16:18:27 GMT -5
So, today I´m one step closer to my final Vz. 58 configuration: Nothing fancy, just polymer lower handguard with rails, short rail for AFG grip (came from ebay lacking the most important screw, so I hope I will find some in local hardware shop...). I purpoesly mounted the long rail inverted, so it allows to mount flashlight as forward as possible, so I can control it with my thumb And I definetly need a sling attachment on rail... Cause the long rail is covering the original one. The flashider is some no-name I just picked... Looks fine, test fire on sunday!
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ace
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Post by ace on Aug 17, 2012 17:09:22 GMT -5
TEX-ZEN, how is the top cover working out? I have the one you have on my list, and a review would be great.
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