snare
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Undersized Member
Posts: 45
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Post by snare on Dec 3, 2011 18:24:20 GMT -5
Hey yall.
Been thinking about an OWB holster for a battle belt/first line gear.
I carry kydex for my IWB CCW holster (G19 in a Dale Fricke Archangel carried AIWB actually). I like kydex, but am thinking about the need for a flapped holster in the role of an armed citizen (AC).
So, some parameters that I think would do well:
-flapped holster -no velcro or srb's -droppable/offsettable (to clear armor or chest rig) -can accommodate a weapon mounted light -has a trigger guard -can be worn on a trouser belt or molle battle belt -holster must not ride up much if at all when the firearm is drawn.
I feel a flapped holster would be preferred for an AC who expects to be patrolling for extended periods in all kinds of weather. I'd prefer the excellent tuck tab closure design as is found on the UW Gear chest rigs (no velcro to wear or stop working with mud or snow, no side release buckles to break).
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Post by Diz on Dec 5, 2011 7:40:11 GMT -5
I agree Snare, there is definately a place for a flapped holster rig for armed citizens, especially in a rural setting.
I am working on something like this as we speak.
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snare
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Posts: 45
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Post by snare on Apr 16, 2012 13:36:22 GMT -5
any updates?
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Post by Hawkeye on Apr 16, 2012 19:27:23 GMT -5
Unfortunately, no. We have been so busy with our current stuff, and trying to keep up with recent demand, that we have not had a chance to do much R&D on any of the other items on our to-do list, much less start on any completely new items. We'll get there.....just cant say when. We really do want to look into it.
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4track
Junior Member
Posts: 276
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Post by 4track on Apr 16, 2012 20:49:50 GMT -5
HSGI has some very nice soft holsters that can be had with a flap: Highspeedgearinc.com/products.php?cat=43I have one of their drop holsters for tactical lights, and I added a flap to it. You can see it in this blurry photo from a few years ago: It worked great when retention was more important than speed. It can be adjusted up pretty high onto a belt, too. The only downside is that the flap does secure with a side release buckle.
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4track
Junior Member
Posts: 276
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Post by 4track on Apr 16, 2012 21:36:32 GMT -5
For anyone who is interested, here are a few more photos of the HSGI flap holster system: It might be worth your while, snare, until the UW Gear holster debuts....
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Post by kenny256 on Jun 20, 2012 16:15:07 GMT -5
Just figured I would post it in this thread.
I have a beretta 92fs that I need an OWB holster for a 1st line I am putting together.
I dont like drop leg at all....I just want to attach it straight on my hip on the belt.
What do you guys recommend?
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Post by jsbcody on Jun 20, 2012 20:55:57 GMT -5
kenny, I'm also not a fan of drop leg holsters either. I have a G Code Duty Belt RTI mount on my battle belt. That way I can quickly switch holsters from SIG 229 to Glocks, Beretta 92 or M&P. As for the holster, I use the G Code XST model (similar to the Safariland duty holsters).
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Post by kenny256 on Jun 21, 2012 13:24:57 GMT -5
I really like that G code cody! that is a good looking, workable setup!
I think I found a new holster! Im still going to look around, but that one is on the list!
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Post by whitebear620 on Dec 18, 2015 21:16:18 GMT -5
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Post by barefootafrican on Dec 27, 2015 20:27:53 GMT -5
Hey yall. Been thinking about an OWB holster for a battle belt/first line gear. I carry kydex for my IWB CCW holster (G19 in a Dale Fricke Archangel carried AIWB actually). I like kydex, but am thinking about the need for a flapped holster in the role of an armed citizen (AC). So, some parameters that I think would do well: -flapped holster -- check! with the UW tuck/pull tab opening. -no velcro or sub's - -- no clicky crappy hateful plastic ge-gaw snappy stuff-droppable/offsettable (to clear armor or chest rig) ------ good molle compatable 3 field, 0-10 degree forward cant of the very light very functional Ultracomp type. weight thickness reduction in soft holster would allow a kydex stiffening panel to improve slop factor. Material of holster 1000D Cordura for wear.
-can accommodate a weapon mounted light ------ nope, but must fit a full size service weapon like a Glock 41 or 5" 1911!-has a trigger guard ------ nope but provide an inside loop for the Dale Frick type trigger cover. Leave a UW gear style sewn drain hole.-can be worn on a trouser belt or molle battle belt ------- yes must fit a battle belt 3 field with as little slop as is reasonable. Never gonna wear this on a leather belt-holster must not ride up much if at all when the firearm is drawn. I feel a flapped holster would be preferred for an AC who expects to be patrolling for extended periods in all kinds of weather. - ------ Agreed! Mud is a super big issue in the NW. Crawl 40 feet and Kydex is full of chunks.
I'd prefer the excellent tuck tab closure design as is found on the UW Gear chest rigs (no velcro to wear or stop working with mud or snow, no side release buckles to break). This is key Hate drop-leg holsters. upright battle belt, or horizontal plate carrier mounting for me. Price point <$200. I am thinking a molly panel with two molly strips separated by 1" - 1 1/4"webbing, from the bottom over inside the flap for tuck tab that sewn webbing could have a strip of Kydex for stiffness. The holster and flap 1000D Cordura Multicam - absolutely no extra thumbreak retention aka Tac. Taylor or HSGI. A 1/2" hard webbing up the inside front spine for stiffness, and sight wear resistance Flap must cover entire pistol butt, when folded, The HGSI shape is a good approximation in starting shape. Tuck-tab closure should be more centered over the trigger area. bottom of holster to be closed but for drain
Size for a Glock 41 and it will work for a heck of a lot of full frame pistols.
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matt
New Member
Trigger Jerk
Posts: 244
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Post by matt on Dec 28, 2015 14:16:28 GMT -5
When I think battle belt holsters, I think Safariland. The ALS or SLS holsters will fit all of your requirements except 1 which is the flap but the SLS holsters do have a hood. I originally switched to SLS holsters years ago after having a handgun lifted out of the holster by a branch while trying to recover a deer in heavy brush. I understood the need for some kind of retention device in that moment.
The advantage of the Safariland stuff is that there are every kind of belt and drop leg attachment imaginable. You can even make a high ride "drop rig" by just using a UBL with one of their $12 leg straps sandwiched between the UBL and the holster body. It is dirt cheap and works better than just about any dedicated drop leg I have used - just low enough to clear armor but rock solid and not so low to extend the draw stroke.
This is my cheap setup of choice...
I purchase a used/cheap Safariland 6280 for the gun/light combo I need. I have never paid more than $40 for one and they usually come with the UBL already. I also purchase a replacement leg strap for the Safariland 6004 which usually costs around $12. Combine them as noted above and rattle can - boom! Cheap, easy, super functional, battle belt holster.
If you want to go nuts, you can get QD setups, drop leg shrouds etc.
Also - a note on the strap... The above holster set up cna be run on your belt without the leg strap but there can be a tendency for the holster to bind a bit during the drawstroke because it wants to rotate out away from your body. The leg strap holds the bottom down so there is no binding.
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Post by panzer0170 on Dec 28, 2015 20:37:26 GMT -5
matt What do you run above/behind/in front/around the slight drop leg for the holster? There is obviously a requirement to access the pistol otherwise it's pointless having it there, but why bother dropping it from the belt at all if it still takes up the same space required on the belt? I'm sure I'm missing something obvious, but I've not had much experience with pistols outside TERRIBLE 1980's flappy belt mounted holsters OR crappy drop leg rigs trying to clear UK webbing which is pretty fat, which means the pistol has to sit low for a good drawstroke...
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Post by waffenmacht on Dec 29, 2015 10:02:31 GMT -5
I'm a fan of both the G Code (modular) and the Safariland offerings. Both are modular, you can fairly easily change attach points from belt to molle to thigh rig (if necessary). I currently (and have for many years) run a Safariland on a belt mount, with a custom leather drop spacer that I made. It sits a little lower then the standard belt mount, but higher then a thigh rig would. As far as location, most instructors will tell you, if you stand upright and your fingers wont curl around the bottom of your holster, it is too low.
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matt
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Trigger Jerk
Posts: 244
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Post by matt on Dec 29, 2015 14:22:35 GMT -5
matt What do you run above/behind/in front/around the slight drop leg for the holster? There is obviously a requirement to access the pistol otherwise it's pointless having it there, but why bother dropping it from the belt at all if it still takes up the same space required on the belt? I'm sure I'm missing something obvious, but I've not had much experience with pistols outside TERRIBLE 1980's flappy belt mounted holsters OR crappy drop leg rigs trying to clear UK webbing which is pretty fat, which means the pistol has to sit low for a good drawstroke... It is dropped enough to ensure there is no interference with chest rigs/armor. Most belt hoslters put the grip of the gun above the belt which means some armor set ups can tend to sit on the grip of the gun. My holster set up is barely dropped at all so it is probably a misnomer to even call it a drop rig. I just needed a way to place the grip of the gun at level of the top of a belt which is more than enough to clear most anything worn on the upper body. This type of holster also pushes it off your body a bit too which is helpful for clearance. The leg strap is there to deal with the binding and may not be necessary for some users. The nice thing is that it is low enough to clear anything on the upper body but not so low that it is ungainly when I don't have gear to clear up top so it works in all situations.
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