ace
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Post by ace on Apr 10, 2012 17:01:45 GMT -5
I have , and used all the wonder guns. One gun( hand gun) to depend My life or my dearest loved one. My Norinco fraimed Wilson parts 1911. Ammo, Corbon, Gold Dot, 230 gr. Why? Cause when I pull that 20 year old trigger, its slick, smooth, and it hits where I look..
Ok, no, it's not my only, I have Glocks An all the wonder guns. But what do I know, I still have a 357 for my car gun. When we were doing vehicle testing in the 90's. The 357 mag was always king. I haven't followed, but cars keep getting thinner so I figure it out to work better. I have several 9's, I like them, with the right ammo, there great. It's not a matter of ammo, or how many rounds you can burn down range.Its confidence, and just pure knock down. I have up dated( still have the same pistol just in case you wonder. And it has more rounds, but it's not what you can guess.
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ace
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Post by ace on Apr 10, 2012 19:23:38 GMT -5
not impressive. I would/ will bet life's on it. Attachments:
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tada
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Post by tada on Apr 22, 2012 18:21:21 GMT -5
We cannot use Hollow points here in Czech Republic, so I choose .45 ACP (well, my .45 LC Peacemaker would be better, but cannot be concealed easily). Since .45 ACP was designed with adequate stopping power with FMJ in mind...
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Post by UnforseenWeather on Oct 25, 2012 15:55:46 GMT -5
Honestly, so long as it meets a couple minimum requirements, I couldn't care less what the caliber is. I've shot - and have owned - many of the popular guns and calibers. As a carry piece a .380 is my base caliber though I don't own one - 9mm is my carry, training and SHTF choice. While .45 in one of my 1911s is nice and remains the gun I compare all other handguns to, I have moved on to standardize on my M&Ps. Again though- familiarize yourself with all the options you can and refine from there. Hopefully it doesn't cost too much
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Post by tangouniform on Oct 25, 2012 22:24:32 GMT -5
I'd rather be missed by a .45 than hit by a .22!
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bigen
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Post by bigen on Jan 9, 2015 6:31:51 GMT -5
theres nothing "knockdown" about even rifle loads, there's only shock and pain making people give up, or 5 seconds or more later, blood loss making them pass out. the 230 gr jhp's dont' expand in animals, from 4" or shorter barrels, even with plus p loads, or with 5" barrels and normal pressure loads. shoot some criters with it, find out for yourself. Jello means almost nothing. the lungs take up most of the chest and they are just air sacks. almost nothing there to make a jhp expand. you need much higher velocity, like the 165 gr jhp corbon. if the heavy jhp's worked, they'd never have developed the lighter ones
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bigen
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Post by bigen on Jan 9, 2015 6:33:11 GMT -5
.45 ball fails quite ofen, on mere alley cats, and does much worse on feral dogs. it's just had a LOT of lies told about it, that's all
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Post by Diz on Jan 9, 2015 10:11:45 GMT -5
Well, to jump in here, I will say there's nothing wrong with your choice. If it works for you, then drive on. But I will say, based on my experience, I have had problems with (cheap) 1911 frames, and parts of various manufacturer. Not as a hit on the 1911, per se, but as a cautionary note on ALL bench built guns, using parts from multiple sources. You have to be careful, and have much trial and error to find combinations that actually work well together. Having Kuhnhausen's books on the 1911, with their ordnance-style drawings sure helps, when you can mic out each part and insure it meets the original mil-spec. Then when you build it within the original specs as intended, you have a very reliable weapons system. The problems start with after-market parts and their unintended tolerance stacks when used in combinations that have never been tested (except by you, hopefully ahead of time). If you do all the homework, and find a reliable solution, drive on. If not, be aware of such things. I'm not saying this guy (Ace) has or hasn't done these things. I am saying that I've built hundreds of 1911's, many with various problems stemming from non mil-spec parts. The bottom line here, I would not personally trust a 1911 pistol that I had not personally inspected and built, from the ground up, as a (mostly) mil-spec 1911 as JB designed it (There are a few improvements, such as sights, that would be acceptable upgrades). And, I would not personally run hollow point ammo in it, as this is not what the pistol was originally designed to shoot. Again, just my opinion, but it is based on many years of building and use.
You are free to post whatever you use for self-defense. But if I think some comment is necessary to not mis-lead other folks who may not have the depth of knowledge to judge what's being said, I'm gonna chime in. This is not a good choice, IMHO, for the vast majority of folks out there, who do not have the knowledge, skill, time and money to build a reliable 1911. It, like the M-1/M-14 and others, come from an age when weapons were made from extensive machining operations, and are of a design where, eventually, the weapon will need to be rebuilt to function reliably. This not to say they don't work, but they DO require extensive maintenance to maintain and use. People who use custom 1911's (and what Ace has built is certainly in this category), typically have backgrounds in gunsmithing, or have people who do it for them. In this case, these weapons are perfectly acceptable, as long as they are properly maintained. But for the average joe, especially these younger generations, without the depth of mechanical knowledge, it simply is not a good choice. You are better off with a newer generation of weapons, which are vastly simplified and improved, within this regard.
Another key point, and this is also from personal experience, is that under extreme pressure, having external safeties, that must be defeated in order to fire a handgun, MAY cause a malfunction. If you forget to sweep the thumb safety in the heat of the moment, the gun will not fire. If the thumb (or grip) safety are not properly fitted by a competent gunsmith, the gun may not fire. If you accidently sweep the slide lock up, the gun will not fire. If you drag a thumb along the slide, you can cause a stove pipe, and the weapon will not fire (yes you can do this with any gun, but the presence of the slide lock puts your thumbs in a position where this is much easier). If your ramp is not properly cut for hollow points, it may not feed. If your mags are not 100% reliable it may not feed or lock open on last round. I have personally seen all this and more.
If you do not posses the knowledge and skill, stick to a factory built gun for self-defense. And make sure that factory knows what it's doing as well. Look for weapons with a long, reliable track records.
I happen to believe that when it comes to utterly reliable function, under extreme stress, that the Glock pistols are probably the best bet for the vast majority of folks out there, with at least a little interest in the subject. Failing that, a good revolver is probably the best bet, for those without any interest in the subject, past defending themselves. Regardless of caliber and all those other things people love to argue about, getting a reliable weapon, that will fire on demand, in demanding circumstances, should be the guiding principle. Not what pet weapon you may like to tinker with. And yes I include myself in that last comment. I have sold off my custom 1911's and gone to Glocks for this very reason.
And I do still love 1911's. They are a thing of beauty, when properly built. The problem is so many these days really aren't. And they require a manual of arms that needs extensive training to master and maintain. There are much better choices out there, if you have a choice at all.
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bigen
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Post by bigen on Jan 10, 2015 21:53:57 GMT -5
1911's the ones with good records, ie, govt models, are too bulky and heavy for most to always ccw. the little ones are shaky about reliability. so the frame's irrelevant, the gm's just a toy/practice gun anyway
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Post by andrewe on Jan 11, 2015 8:58:54 GMT -5
1911's the ones with good records, ie, govt models, are too bulky and heavy for most to always ccw. the little ones are shaky about reliability. so the frame's irrelevant, the gm's just a toy/practice gun anyway On the first part...what? How'd you come to that conclusion? Seriously, the 1911-type is one of the slimmest full-size pistols out there. I'm a beanpole (about 6' and 155) and I can conceal one well enough that immediate family members don't know it's there. Biggest problem is the grip length, but that's true for any pistol--I can't quite hide a Glock 17 or 22 as easily, nor can I put an extended-tube mag in the fullsize 1911, because then it gets close enough to printing that I'm not happy about it. A halfway decent belt (though I splurged on a Comp-Tac...double layered leather with a thin stiffening insert between, 1.5" width) and holster, and a Government Model is cake, weight and all. Or, much cheaper, a Wilderness Instructor belt, with 5-stitch option; I got it when the 5-stitch was a free upgrade, so it only cost me about $35+shipping, and that was in 2008. A properly set-up 1911 of Commander length or longer is plenty reliable with appropriate maintenance (and for a decent example, the maintenance is less intensive than one might think). But viz. the thread topic, if I have to depend on my first round, I want to be launching it from a pistol that I know helps me make that round hit what I need it to hit. As long as it's a quality hollowpoint in a service caliber, I'm good with that. Fortunately, there are plenty of places to look for not only lab results but real-world feedback on modern ammunition, making the finding of quality loads easier than ever.
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Post by hudson5969 on Jan 11, 2015 9:49:58 GMT -5
The thing that really makes a 1911 shine is the trigger. In that department, you have the 1911, and you have everything else.
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Post by panzer0170 on Jan 11, 2015 13:00:26 GMT -5
hudson5969 I've heard this a few times before - Is there any reason for this? Is it that it's different mechanically to other handguns, or that they were all hand built (something I half remember hearing, but I don't know whether I'm making that up from half truths...) or something else?
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Post by UnforseenWeather on Jan 11, 2015 14:33:20 GMT -5
The mechanism itself of the 1911 can be refined to the point of near sublime-ness.
Modern trigger parts in a striker fired pistol can be modified to be good, but not the level the 1911 can be built to. My M&Ps have had quality aftermarket trigger parts installed by te best M&P 'smith around, and they have excellent and consistent triggers.
Thing is, is trigger pull *that* important for our intents and purposes? So long as it is consistent, of course. This goes more to the "singer, not the song" type of thing. So long as there is training, and no mechanical detriment to the trigger (HK style decockers that I put my thumb on, which results in a 500lb trigger pull), you should have no issues.
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Post by panzer0170 on Jan 11, 2015 14:45:00 GMT -5
Totally agree with your comment about importance. More a curiosity thing than anything else.
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Post by hudson5969 on Jan 11, 2015 14:59:48 GMT -5
Really it's just that the 1911 has a straight-back pull, and the mating surfaces can be made so smooth, and the pull so light that it's......well like UnforseenWeather said, sublime.
It really makes a difference in shooting competitions. In combat shooting? Probably not so much. Some have snarked that because of the fine trigger pull, the 1911 is both the easiest gun to shoot someone with, and the hardest to NOT shoot someone with.
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